It happens every year. You’ve got a gorgeous pot of basil on the patio, then one night the temperature drops, and the next morning it’s black and limp.
Most herbs can make it through winter just fine. They just need to come inside at the right time, and they need slightly different care once they’re there. Here’s how to do it without losing your plants.
When to bring herbs inside
Don’t wait for frost. Some herbs get damaged well before it freezes.
- Basil and tulsi (holy basil): bring them in before nights drop below about 50°F (10°C). They’re tropical plants, and cold nights stunt them even without frost.
- Most other tender herbs: bring them in before your first frost, around 32°F (0°C).
Check the 10-day forecast. When you see the first chilly night coming, that’s your cue. Search your ZIP code plus “first frost date” to see when frost usually arrives where you live.
Which herbs to bring in, and which can stay out
Not every herb needs rescuing. Some are tough and actually do better outside.
| Herb | What to do |
|---|---|
| Basil | Bring in early, or take cuttings (see below) |
| Tulsi (holy basil) | Bring in early, it hates the cold |
| Mint | Very hardy. Leave the main pot outside and bring a small piece in for fresh leaves |
| Cilantro | Handles light frost. Indoors, it’s easier to sow a fresh pot than move an old one |
| Parsley | Fairly hardy. Bring it in if your winters get harsh |
| Rosemary | Bring in where winters are cold. It can stay out in milder areas |
| Thyme, oregano, chives, sage | Usually fine outside. They go dormant and come back in spring |
How to move herbs indoors, step by step
1. Check for bugs first
This is the step everyone skips, and then aphids end up all over every houseplant. Look under the leaves and along the stems. Rinse the whole plant with a gentle spray of water, and snip off any damaged or yellow leaves.
2. Pot it up in fresh mix
If your herb is growing in the ground or a raised bed, dig it up with as much root as you can and put it in a pot with a drainage hole. Use fresh potting mix, not garden soil. Garden soil packs down hard in a pot and can bring pests inside.
3. Ease it in over a week
Plants can go into shock when they suddenly move from bright sun to a dim room. For about a week, bring the pot inside at night and put it back outside in the day (in shade, not full sun). Then bring it in for good.
4. Give it a light trim
Cut back about a third of the growth. A smaller plant has less leaf to support while it adjusts to lower light, and trimming encourages new, bushy growth.
The easier option: take cuttings
Big outdoor plants often sulk indoors. For basil, mint and tulsi, taking cuttings is usually more reliable than moving the whole plant.
- Cut a 4 to 6 inch (10 to 15 cm) piece from the top of a healthy stem.
- Pull off the lower leaves so only the top few remain.
- Stand it in a glass of water on a bright windowsill and change the water every few days.
- Once roots are about an inch long (usually one to two weeks), plant it in a small pot.
You end up with a young, compact plant that’s used to indoor life. Our mint guide and basil guide have more on growing both.
Winter care: what changes indoors
Light is the big one
Winter sun is weak and the days are short. Put herbs in your sunniest window, ideally facing south, and turn the pots every few days so they don’t lean. If they’re getting tall, pale and floppy, they need more light. A simple LED grow light, about 6 to 12 inches above the plants for 12 to 14 hours a day, makes a huge difference.
Water less than you think
This is where most indoor herbs die. With less light and slower growth, they drink much less. Only water when the top inch of soil is dry. If you’re not sure, wait a day. Our herbs indoors guide explains the simple finger test, and if you’ve already overdone it, here’s how to save an overwatered plant.
Skip the fertilizer
Herbs rest in winter. Feeding them now just stresses the roots. Hold off until you see strong new growth in early spring.
Watch the heat and the cold glass
Keep pots away from heaters and vents, which dry them out fast. And don’t let leaves touch a freezing window at night.
Little problems to watch for
- Tall, thin stems: not enough light. Move them closer to the window or add a grow light.
- Yellow leaves: usually too much water. Let the soil dry out more.
- Tiny flies around the soil: fungus gnats. They love wet soil. Let the top of the soil dry out and use yellow sticky traps.
- Dropping leaves right after the move: normal. Give it a week or two to settle in.
Harvest a little, all winter
Indoor herbs grow slower in winter, so harvest lightly, a few sprigs at a time and never more than a third of the plant. Come spring, you’ll have healthy plants ready to go back outside, and you won’t have to start over.
Planning what to grow next? Here’s what to plant in October.
Want to know exactly when to water your indoor herbs? UrbanLeaf gives you one simple task a day for each plant, with organic care tips and watering advice based on your local weather, so your herbs make it through winter. 🌱